After Conception

After conception in dogs, the fertilized eggs will begin to divide and develop into embryos. This process usually takes about 63 days, although it can vary slightly depending on the breed of the dog. During this time, the embryos will continue to grow and develop, eventually becoming fetuses.

At around 3 weeks after conception, the embryos will have attached to the uterine lining and will begin to develop more specialized structures, such as the heart and blood vessels. By 4 weeks, the fetal puppies will have developed all of their major organs and will begin to move around within the uterus.

During the final weeks of pregnancy, the fetal puppies will continue to grow and develop, and the mother's body will start to prepare for childbirth. This includes the production of milk in the mammary glands and the expansion of the uterus to make room for the growing puppies.

It is important for the expectant mother to receive proper nutrition and care during pregnancy to ensure the health and well-being of both her and her puppies. This may include a special diet, regular visits to the veterinarian, and avoiding strenuous activity.

Pregnancy

The pregnancy or gestation period extends from the time of successful mating to parturition. Fertilization (union of sperm and egg) takes place in the distal portion of the oviducts and occurs a few days after mating.

The resulting zygotes (fertilized eggs) begin cell division growth, and the growing organisms are then called embryos. The developing embryos move from the oviducts into the uterus 6 to 10 days after conception and implant or attach to the uterine walls 17 to 21 days after fertilization. As they implant and their placenta develops, the embryos are then called fetuses. The fetuses are usually evenly spaced throughout the two uterine horns.

Pregnancy Diagnosis:

1. Ultrasound can be done as early as 24 days from the last breeding, but for a more accurate diagnosis we recommend doing it in 28-35 days from the last breeding. Puppy count is only an estimate at this stage with ultrasound.

2. Radiographs give us a more accurate puppy count, although no technique is 100 percent. We recommend radiographs any time after 55 days.

The pregnancy or gestation period of the bitch lasts between 56 to 66 days, with an average length of 63 days. During this period the corpora lutea are maintained and remain functional, secreting progesterone, which is important for the maintenance of pregnancy. To confirm pregnancy, palpation of the bitch's abdomen for the presence of evenly spaced swellings can be conducted by an experienced person between 20 and 30 days after the last mating. However, improper procedure or excessive prodding can cause a miscarriage. After confirming that the bitch is pregnant, make sure you become familiar with the basics of prenatal care, parturition (whelping), and emergency procedures.

A pregnant bitch requires additional food to support the growth of pups inside her and to produce the milk that pups will need after birth. Feed her the same amount of the usual adult maintenance diet for the first 4 weeks of pregnancy. Then gradually increase the amount of food so that by whelping time she is eating about one and one-half times her maintenance diet. Consider switching to a commercial dog food that is specifically formulated for pregnancy and lactation. However, due to possible whelping problems, make sure that the bitch does not gain any excessive weight during this period.

Very few physical changes occur until the fifth week of pregnancy. By the fifth week of pregnancy, the nipples and mammary glands swell and darken in color. Between the sixth and seventh week, the bitch's abdomen is enlarged due to the growth of the pups. At about 8 weeks into the pregnancy, the bitch's mammary glands will enlarge considerably and milk may appear on the nipples.

4 simple tell-tale dog pregnancy signs:

1. Watch for nipple color change in your dog Her nipples may appear slightly swollen and pinker than normal. Develops 2 to 3 weeks after conception.

2. After about 4 to 5 weeks her tummy and waist will begin to fill out.

3. You may notice mood changes in your dog. She might be quieter than usual as she will have hormone level changes, also keep in mind that all dogs (like humans) are different and each pregnancy is different. Your dog may be quieter, more affectionate, clingy or the total reverse where she wants to be left alone.

4. Check her gums. If they are rosy red and normal, she may not be pregnant. But if her gums are white(ish) it can be due to the blood is forming where the fetus’ are attaching.

   
   

Ultrasound imaging equipment can be used from about three weeks into the pregnancy to detect fetal heartbeats.

X-rays are not commonly used because the fetal skeletons do not become visible until the sixth week of pregnancy.

After conception, your bitch's personality may change slightly, it is important that you carry on as normal.

Don't increase her food too much too soon. She will make good use of a continued stable diet. About halfway through her pregnancy, you can start to increase her intake. A gradual build up each week, working up to about 50% extra is fine. She probably won't want large helpings towards the end of her pregnancy, so little and often is advised.

Do not give your bitch vitamin or mineral supplements unless advised by your vet. We work directly with Medford Vet Clinic.

FOOD

Giving puppies a good nutritional start in life begins with properly feeding the pregnant bitch. Her energy requirements increase about 10 percent a week from week 6 through 9 of pregnancy, thus it is especially important to meet those energy needs. Here are tips on nutrition for pregnant bitches:

• Pregnant bitches should be fed a high-quality, complete-and-balanced adult maintenance dog food until week six, then transitioned to a highly digestible, energy- and nutrient-dense puppy or performance dog food from week six through lactation.

• Excessive weight gain and obesity in pregnant bitches can cause large fetal birth weight and less effective uterine contractions during labor, leading to dystocia (difficulty birthing). Without a C-section, you could lose the bitch and puppies.

• Due to the increased size of fetuses, a bitch’s digestive tract has limited room to expand after each meal. It helps to split food into several meals. Fetuses put on 75 percent of their body weight in the last trimester.

• The first 72 hours are nutritionally critical for puppies. They rely entirely on the dam’s first milk, colostrum, to receive highly concentrated energy and nutrients, passive immunity and growth factors. Colostrum protects the newborn puppy during the first 10 to 12 weeks of life.

Exercise

Exercise is very important for your bitch, but follow her lead, she will get slower and walk less as the pregnancy progresses. She will be quite large and start to slow down around the sixth or seventh week. Like with the feeding, little and often is advised.

Keep her away from other dogs and bitches you do not want her picking up any viruses or illnesses. She probably won't take too kindly to other dogs sniffing around her anyway.

Your bitch will need to be wormed during her pregnancy to make sure she does not infect the unborn puppies. Worming should continue after whelping so that the puppies cannot contract any infections from the Bitch's milk. Roundworm (Toxocara Canis) is a parasite that can be passed on to humans, especially children. Your vet will be able to advise the best treatment. See Dog Health for more information.

Constipation can cause problems during the whelping stage. If you suspect your bitch is constipated you must seek medical advice.

About halfway through the pregnancy, your bitch may get a vaginal discharge, if this becomes blood stained you will need to take her to a vet quickly.

The whelping area needs to be prepared soon after the pregnancy is confirmed. Your bitch should move into it about halfway through the pregnancy, so she will have time to settle in. The area needs to be enclosed, but not too small - it needs to house your bitch and all her pups. Your bitch needs room to move about and stretch out. It needs to be warm, comfortable and airy (but not droughty). If your bitch usually lives in the house, don't move her out. She still wants to feel like a part of the family, although a part of the house where she will receive fewer interruptions is wise.

Toy breeds are extra sensitive when whelping, so a peaceful area is really important. Puppies of toy breeds are also more likely to suffer from hypothermia so it is especially important to maintain a constant room temperature, no lower than 75 degrees Fahrenheit and no higher than 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

If your bitch usually lives outside then make sure the area is safe, warm and dry, and within hearing distance from your house. You will need to buy a heat lamp and maybe a baby monitor.

Newborn puppies cannot regulate their own body temperature until they are about one week old, so extra warmth for them is essential. If the whelping box is in your own home, you can increase the temperature by a few degrees to a cosy 75-78 degrees Fahrenheit. But if the whelping box is in an exterior building, a heat lamp or other safe mode of heating in the area is essential. If you buy a heat lamp or other sources of heating make sure you follow the instructions for use carefully.

Your puppies will not open their eyes for two or more weeks. It is preferable that unnatural light is kept low so that the puppies can get accustomed to it gently. Your bitch will be more relaxed with subdued lighting too.

Don't forget when preparing the whelping area that it needs to be cleaned and disinfected regularly. It is a good idea to have a box that the puppies can't escape from to put them in while you clean and change their bedding. Newspaper is an ideal lining for a whelping box as it can be scooped up and thrown away when messy. Blankets are warm and cosy, but they require thorough washing and drying before reusing.

The whelping area must have a table and adequate hand washing facilities close by. Lay out the equipment you may need neatly, this way you will have everything to hand and won't fumble at an inopportune moment.

Whelping Area Checklist:

Whelping Box - This needs to be big enough that your bitch can lie out flat. Guardrails, sometimes called pig rails, are a good idea, this will stop your bitch from rolling onto any of the pups.

Spare box - You will have to move the pups to safety when your bitch starts whelping again. It will also be used to put the pups in while you clean the whelping area. A clean washing basket is great, lined with newspaper, make sure it has warmth, you could put a hot water bottle under some bedding, or buy a heat pad.

Newspapers - To line the whelping area. These can be scooped up and thrown away afterwards. You will need a lot, whelping is a messy business.

Heating Lamp - Only required if your whelping box is in an exterior building or a room with no heat control.

Blankets (or Whelping Pads) - Old, clean blankets are great to line the whelping box once the pups have been born. Initially the bitch will clean up after her little ones, but even so, things will still get messy so the blankets must be washed regularly.

Clean Towels & rags - For drying each puppy as it is born.

Scales - Household scales are sufficient enough to weigh the pups when they are born and to continually monitor the growth rate.

Table Top Checklist:

• Anal Thermometer - This can be useful for monitoring the temperature of your bitch prior to delivery.

• Scissors - For cutting the umbilical cords.

• Latex Gloves - Whelping is messy anyway, but also your bitch may need your help.

• Reel of Cotton or Fishing Line - To tie off the umbilical cord, before cutting.

• Antiseptic Solution - To clean the area around the umbilical cord once cut and tied. Check which brand your vet recommends.

• Bulb Syringe - For clearing the puppy's airways should any problems occur.

• Flashlight - Your bitch will need to urinate during the whelping period, which may be at night. A good torch is essential to make sure she hasn't accidentally dropped a puppy.

• Cell Phone - Have your vet's number to hand in case of emergency.

• Chromebook or IPad + Google Docs - To record information regarding the weight and sex of each pup as well as the time and order in which they were born. Details regarding birthing complications are important, as your vet will need to know such information.

• Digital or Phone - To take a picture of each puppy as it is born for identification purposes.

Also, your car needs to be ready to go to the vets at short notice. Line your boot (or wherever your dog usually travels) with newspaper and bedding. Be prepared to load your bitch and her puppies into your vehicle, you may have to get to the vet swiftly. Make sure you have fuel, you don't want to be making any stops. Bear in mind that you may need assistance lifting your bitch into the back of the car. It is a good idea to have a family member close by somebody, that the bitch knows.

Allowing time for the birth - The gestation period for a bitch is a lot shorter than that of a human (just 63 days) therefore the due date can be calculated more precisely, although not exactly. You will need to prepare yourself and, if relevant, make sure you have some time off work to assist in the birth and the period immediately after the birth.